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  • parameter ka is known as the wave steepness. The phase speed increases with increasing nonlinearity ka of the waves. The wave height H, being the difference…
    75 kB (8189 palabras) - 15:43 25 jun 2024
  • Rogue waves (also known as freak waves, monster waves, episodic waves, killer waves, extreme waves, and abnormal waves) are unusually large and unpredictable…
    111 kB (12 316 palabras) - 13:27 18 jun 2024
  • two wave systems oppose and combine forces. When the slope, or steepness ratio, of a wave, is too great, breaking is inevitable. Individual waves in deep…
    49 kB (6139 palabras) - 18:26 8 may 2024
  • that large waves travel faster than small ones of the same frequency. This is only noticeable when the wave steepness k a is large. Water waves on a mean…
    30 kB (3374 palabras) - 02:45 29 may 2024
  • more rudder motion to hold its course, and this increases with the wave steepness. A vertical prow is not unique; they were common in the early steam…
    4 kB (432 palabras) - 08:40 5 feb 2024
  • Surfing (redirección desde Barreling wave)
    and steepness, and the top (crest) falls because the velocity of the top of the wave becomes greater than the velocity of the bottom of the wave where…
    87 kB (10 758 palabras) - 09:41 26 jun 2024
  • when wave heights and/or wave steepness values reach certain criteria. These criteria are defined by the local forecast office. Such tall waves can pose…
    3 kB (372 palabras) - 00:19 9 sep 2023
  • This corresponds to the region of surging waves, where there is no real wave breaking and where wave steepness and slope angle do not influence the run-up…
    22 kB (2921 palabras) - 15:57 1 dic 2023
  • originate from long period, low steepness waves and/or steep beach profiles. The outcome is the rapid movement of the base of the wave up the swash slope and the…
    10 kB (1280 palabras) - 16:55 24 jun 2024
  • therefore wave amplitude in the reflected wave must increase with respect to the incident wave. This increase in amplitude and wave steepness results in…
    23 kB (2853 palabras) - 17:04 1 ene 2024
  • fifty-year wave. Various methods are employed to predict the possible steepness and period of these waves, in addition to their height. Index of wave articles…
    3 kB (318 palabras) - 23:11 14 ago 2022
  • extreme steepness, such as seawalls), if the shore steepness is very high, the waves can't reach to the critical steepness to break. The waves climb along…
    9 kB (1170 palabras) - 13:46 16 mar 2023
  • extended by Stokes for non-linear wave motion – known as Stokes' wave theory – correct up to third order in the wave steepness. Even before Airy's linear theory…
    49 kB (5453 palabras) - 22:05 7 may 2024
  • the United States when there is an increased threat of high wave heights and/or wave steepness values reach a certain criteria, but the occurrence, timing…
    4 kB (558 palabras) - 13:19 25 may 2022
  • sneaker waves. Although the term "rogue wave" — meaning an unusually tall or steep wave in mid-ocean — is sometimes used as a synonym for "sneaker wave," one…
    17 kB (1937 palabras) - 01:48 15 jun 2024
  • at the fractional Talbot distance disappear. Further increase in the wave steepness lead to deviations from the established nonlinear theory, unlike in…
    13 kB (1571 palabras) - 21:53 10 feb 2024
  • consequence of excessive steepness Dispersion (water waves) – Dispersion of waves on a water surface Ocean surface waves – Surface waves generated by wind on…
    12 kB (1262 palabras) - 05:43 17 feb 2024
  • Tsunami (redirección desde Tsunami wave train)
    (t)soo-NAH-mee, (t)suu-; from Japanese: 津波, lit. 'harbour wave', pronounced [tsɯnami]) is a series of waves in a water body caused by the displacement of a large…
    63 kB (7365 palabras) - 12:01 10 jun 2024
  • advisory to mariners of wave or sea conditions that are potentially hazardous to small boats because of wave height, wave period, steepness, or swell direction…
    131 kB (13 935 palabras) - 22:00 11 jun 2024
  • In physics, a shock wave (also spelled shockwave), or shock, is a type of propagating disturbance that moves faster than the local speed of sound in the…
    31 kB (3959 palabras) - 22:01 9 jun 2024
  • The Wave is a sandstone rock formation located in Arizona, US, near its northern border with Utah. The formation is situated on the slopes of the Coyote…
    18 kB (2041 palabras) - 22:57 5 ene 2024